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South Africa is a destination which evoked lot of curiosity. To start with my knowledge of South Africa was rudimental. The name Africa only evoked a picture of a hot land close to equator, having a lot of negro/black population. The knowledge about the different countries it holds and various people, the topography it has was very limited. Later as the trip plan advanced, I realized we are going to the country called South Africa in the African continent.
South Africa is the southern most part of Africa. It is a fairly large country lying in the latitude 22'S to 34'S in the southern hemisphere. It has population of 45 millions and half the size of India compared to India having a population of One thousand one hundred million /1.1 billion people.
Our destination was Johannesburg one of the well known cities of South Africa. It is close to the capital Pretoria and accts as the commercial capital of South Africa. Johannesburg is an old settlement of English (whites) who came there in droves two centuries back in search of gold. Still the place has active mining and the underground of South Africa continues to be rich with mineral resources. Apart from Gold it has coal, uranium and diamonds in large quantities. That attracted the settlers who made the land theirs in two centuries bringing in a complete western set up to the South African country.
Now the roads, the buildings the architecture and the system of living with huge malls and flashy individual cars to drive makes it in all ways a western country. The local (blacks) are seen as more as a labour class, their art and music come to fore at places and also wild animals which are still abundant in South Africa are venerated by building large game parks which is also becoming a good tourist attraction.
We started this journey to South Africa to get the flavor of this land and also to be with raghu who has been involved with a management project there. The crux of the project was an Indian company GMR had bought some coal mines in the out skirts of Johannesburg. They discovered the mines were a loosing proposition (economically) after buying them. So KPMG consultants were called into the picture to turn the tables and make the purchase economically viable. Raghu and others have been working in it for last about six months and it was getting time for Raghu to come out of it. So we timed our journey in such a way that shortly Prerna too can join us and at this point Raghu can manage to take a one week break and combining with two day week ends on either side , we planned a ten day ternary to go around South Africa.
However we were a wee bit early, thought the first week we will stay back with Raghu, pick up our energies and also start getting to know the place.
Our journey started on 11th march from Bangalore. We were booked to fly Emirates which was routed via Dubai.
The flight was at 10.30 am. However we started the day early at 5.00 am itself keeping in mind a long way to the Bangalore airport, the immigration clearance and a two hr before reporting time. We reached the airport well in time at 7.30 am; the immigration was no hassle and was in the flight by 9.50 am. Emirates the prized Middle East airlines was a well laid out aircraft. We had a four hr flight to Dubai. We settled ourselves comfortably in the window seats offered to us and were eyeing the airhostess who were a treat to watch. Fair, tall, handsome with Arabic features, their attire too was catching attention. Wearing a bronze colored pant & suit, they have a fancy head gear, a white scarf to cover the head with and a bright red topi. The 4 hr journey went off well eyeing Bangalore by air and Dubai by air sitting in the window seats.
At Dubai their was an 11/2 hr halt. We took the opportunity to look around (Dubai) duty free shops and the attractive make up of the Dubai transit lounge.
Soon we checked in to the Johannesburg section for boarding into our next flight. Here the co-passengers gave us an idea of what South African populace hence we have to encounter. It was a sprinkle of whites and blacks, all well built and broadly set in tune with the expansive and rich country they stay in.
Our next flight started at 3.00 pm (Dubai time). It was an 8hr flight to Johannesburg. We again got the window seats. By now we were used to the Emirate air fairies and also a bit flight wary, added to that we got a mini shock to know there is no vegetarian meals in the flight as they forgot to enlist our vegetarian request in the list. The air fairies came to our rescue by dishing out fruits, juices and breads.
The aircraft touched the tarmac at 9.30 pm (South African time). It is 31/2 hrs behind us as it is in the west of India where sun reaches later. Johannasburg airport (called O.R.Thambo airport) is an impressive one. We have to walk nearly 1 km of well laid out route with escalators and moving pathways to reach our baggage claim area. Collecting our baggage when we came out of the airport we were met with a beaming Raghu who was extremely happy to find us in the South African soil.
Drive to Wit bank from J,burg , about 150 km, where Raghu was put up took just little more than one hr at a speed of 120 km per hr along roads which resembled airport runways in its sleekness and polish. Thus we arrived Raghu’s place at mid night of 11th at 12 `o’ clock.
A long day of 11th, starting at 5.00 am (Indian time) and ending at 3, 30 am (Indian time)
12th .As expected our biological clock was topsy turvy. We tried to catch our sleep suiting to the rhythm of night spread around. However we were wide awake by 5.00 am (Indian time 8.30 am). It was then we got the moorings as where we have landed in wit bank.
Our housing was at a nicely made up two bed roomed service apartment called crest wave villas having about more than 30 such units in a gated compound. Each house was well appointed. The bed rooms have bed and accessories, while the kitchen was opening to the drawing room & had cutleries, vessels for cooking, four plated hot plates, hot& cold water, cutting boards and drawing room had the necessary props as sofa and TV set which has an opening to a sit out having a cane set to sit and bask in the sun. The bath had a bath tub with hot & cold showers.
In fact it was a surprise news to us to know that Raghu had moved to this service apartment, just 4 days ago from his bachelor outfit so that it will serve the purpose when Prerna also arrives.
We spread our wares, loaded the Indian provision bought from Bangalore into the kitchen shelves as the people here thrive in heavy N.Vegetarian fare so we had come armed with dals, masalas, rice, atta etc.
The 12th Friday was a peaceful day getting our moorings to the S.African setting. For Raghu it was a tight day. He left after getting some veggies from close by Veg& fruit mart and went for work and returned only by eightish. We were told these areas looking so sleek and smart are actually crime prone and not to stir out of the compound especially after dark.
Looking out of the apartment verandah what strikes first about the place is its beautiful skyline. The skies are stark blue and expansive. The air clean and seemed to be charged with un polluted
energy. In S.Africa more so in Wit bank people are few and far between, staying in well manicured huge houses, the air is clean, the roads are good. One would say it is picture perfect. We were told lurking behind the scene is a huge, seething disgruntlement between haves and have-nots, between whites & blacks which erupts into crime.
13th
The day was relatively peaceful for us. Our orientation was happening gradually. We were feeling sleepy early and chirpy before dawn. We learnt to have our way by walk to near by veg and fruit market and learn to do shopping in rands by ourselves. However for every veg we were ending up multiplying by Rs. 6.50 . Thus we were astonished tomatoes, potatoes at 16 R (i.e. about 100 Rs a kg and measly coriander leaf and curry leaf at 6rand (aboutRs.40). Also got acquainted to the near by mall.
Being a service apartment a maid comes at 10.00am to clean the house, do the vessels and laundry. For Raghu it was a working day inspite of being a week end. However his office is nearby hence going and coming is not a hassle. Also being provided with a vehicle a Hyundai I -20 which can be driven at the strength of Indian driving license, transport to office or anywhere is not a problem.
14th
This day was Sunday and turned out to be day of great outing. When we got a major exposure to the famous wild life games of S.Africa.
We left home at 8.30 am with packed food. First it was a 150 km drive to J-Burg when we got the first glimpse of S.African Landscape.
The roads as I had mentioned were excellent. The scenery was miles and miles of rolling grass land, vast and spread out with the flat lands on either side extending till the horizon. On reaching J.Burg we had to take a detour of amount 40 km to reach a private game park having numerous lions and other animals.
We were particularly going to witness the famous lion feeding event which takes place every Sunday at 12.00 noon (i.e.) then open to visors.
When we reached the game park , consisting of acres of private land , cordoned off for keeping animals, we found the place already filled with visitors who and come like us to witness the lion feeding . We even spotted some Indians (tamilians) & exchanged talk with them.
It was 11 `0. Clock when we reached there. We rushed then with our car to the lion feeding area.
There are pockets of small open spaces around which people positioned themselves in their cars. Exactly at 12`o. clock trucks arrived followed in each of the opening by packs of lions and lioness. There was one male lion in each of the gang followed by 8 to 10 lioness, something like a harem I suppose.
The people in the trucks threw the meat in the open places and the lions ferociously go and attack the meat & try to price the best pieces for themselves. All this was happening just fts away from us while we sit in the car locked up, positioning our cameras for the scenes unfolding.
Invariably we found the lion picks the best piece and coolly walks to a secluded shady area while the lioness fight over the rest of the pieces. The lions are so concentrated on the food that they don’t even pass a side glance to the `janata’ sitting in cars in so close quarters clicking away their photos. Some lions while crossing path came just patting distance to our car and we could tell hello to them, not that they cared.
We drove around 2 to 3 open places like this and seeing different prides of lions had a real `paisa vassul’ sights of lion and lioness fighting , slurping the meat piece and jauntily walking past the car and lazing around after the meal> It was a sight indeed,
Then our march was on to the Lion cub’s enclosure. There are lion cubs kept there for everybody’s entertainment. There was a queue fot it. Groups of 8 to 10 people are left inside, to be in proximity to lion cubs, to fondle them like kittens and take snaps to say, here we are brave enough to go and touch a lion. Let it may be a cub. It was an experience indeed. Though they are cubs it’s a bit scary to touch them. We had our share of photo sessions.
Then we moved to open eating places where we could spread our wares and eat the food bought by us.
We could also see on the side some giraffes, Zebras, Ostriches, Hyena, Cheetah, guzzle etc.
The day was still left. It was sunny and bright. From the game park now we moved to the city J.Burg. Raghu took us there directly to the Rise bank mall. Only on Sunday in the mall open the roof top there is held a roof top handicraft fare where all Saurian handicrafts are displayed. Some thing akin to our Indian open markets with different make shift stalls selling their fares.
There were beautiful handicrafts sold their, mostly figures and articles made of jet black ebony wood, lot of masks, oyster shell handicrafts, wooden art pieces, jewelry etc.
We could not buy much for one the time was short to examine. We had just an hr to rush through as shops close by 5 `o. clock and added to that the prices the rands converted were getting to astronomical amounts and we required time to digest, think and buy. Finally we rushed into a govt. handicrafts and bought few things.
Coming out of the mall we drove through J.Burg , the once famous gold mining capital of the world, we found the city still well kept and preserved. There was hardly any feeling of rush & crowd even in the heart of the city though presently it is termed as the crime capital of the world but for the nondiscerning eye it was looking all cool and neat.
We returned home after the night fall doing about 380 km of driving that day.
After reaching home, as it was the nombu day, I had a head bath, made vella payasam and observed nombu with yellow threads brought from India.
We had carted off from India the Gods, lamp for lighting, vibhuthi, kumkum etc. so that we can observe the morning evening prayer ritual.
15th, 16th, &17th.
They were fairly routine days. As it was working days for Raghu, he had to leave early most of the days coming back late hence we were left to ourselves.
Some blessing was Raghu maneuvered to get a car for us and encouraged Venkat to drive it. So myself & Venkat could go for small drives to pick up groceries. We didn’t venture out much as we were not sure which areas are cordoned off as crime places.
We were infect placed in up country were everything looked hunky dory.
Also we were doing the evening walks and getting an idea of the neighborhood.
Raghu’s close collegue and friend, one Mr. Anshuman was winding up and leaving after a six month stay. He was coming for food as he had wound up his kitchen and also loaded all his remaining Indian provisions on us.
In fact he & Raghu were shacking it together till recently, cooking together, going for outing all over S.Africa in the weekends.
With out good companion stay in such places can become tedious and long drawn.
19th March –
Today Prerna arrived from India. Her flight landed at Johannasburg at 9.00 a.m. Raghu had been to the airport to bring her home. Myself and Venkat bought a bouquet of flowers from nearby Veg & fruit mart as well got the lunch ready.
As scheduled they arrived by 10.30 a.m ,so now our team was ready to embark on the trip to see S.Africa starting from 20th, the next day.
Evening as Raghu arrived from work early we went around witbank. .
There is an impressive Casino here. In fact the most impressive and prominent building of any town out here are casinos. Wit bank had one. Spacious and attractively build where Raghu was telling people come in droves during week ends when they get their pay to try their luck either to double it or loose it.
Then Raghu took us to the black areas of Witbank. They are a bit pathetic. It’s like seeing a well laid out drawing room and then having a peep at the shabby back yard. The blacks live in shabby quarters, the roads and lay out are a far cry from the white localities. It’s like seeing any under developed country. So now we could understand the reason for crime, the disparity between haves and have-nots is huge.
Any way we drove through with caution, with crime being high, the risk factor of driving through these areas was high.
20th March
Today our S.African tour started. We planned our trip from George town which was S.west of J.Burg about nearly 1800 km far. As the distance was far we decided to fly the distance to save time and energy.
We had been booked by a local flight called 1 time flight at 11.00 a.m... So we left home by 8.30 a.m. Raghu had some work in his office at Witbank. So initially we drove their, saw his office and he met his `sardhar’ boss from India. Then drove directly to J.Burg, 150km away, the O.R. Thamba airport. We reached their by 10.00 a.m. Picking up some bread based items from the cafeteria from the airport, we boarded our 1time flight. All four of us were allotted four different seats as the flight was tightly packed with all week end travelers going to Cape town.
The week end traveling is a very much imprinted thing in their national psyche. Hence most of the scenically good places have been developed and kept well for the holiday goers. I think this way you get tuned to nature more often. It’s a trait worth imbibing for Indians too.
We reached George town by 1`0’ clock, a 2 hr flight. Soon after landing at the airport, Raghu as per previous arrangement went & hired a car for rent to be used in the rest of the 6 day travel. He picked up a Toyota Corolla, a roomy car with dickey space. We could house our luggage comfortably and could be driven by all of us as Indian license was Ok for S.Africa. But it was Raghu & Prerna who were alternatively in the wheel.
We then hit the highway and drove to our appointed place of staying 35km far. The place was a beautiful villa nestled in a mini hillock. It was called Tarragon villa. Here for travel to a new place you have to have a road map for like in India it is hard to find any way siders whom you can address `bholo bhai’ and get your way described . But the road signs are clear, non confusing if we watch out& one can find a way in an unknown place if we are on look out with a map.
We reached the villa shortly. The place was like a mini heaven, Trimmed grass with gleaming fresh water in the private swimming pool, the rooms spacious, having 3 bedrooms, living space and kitchenette. Every thing very artistically built and arranged. The bedrooms were opening to the sky by a roof ventilator, bath rooms had brown masonry, closed shower rooms with hot and cold showers.
21st march
It was Raghu’s Birth day. It opened in Cape town, the farthest, southern most corner of S.Africa. .
We were actually in a place called Haut bay in Cape town area. We started out after break fast at 9.50 a.m. Within 10km drive we were in haut bay proper where Atlantic Ocean enters into a rocky out cliff making a bay, a quieter sea area. We halted at `Chapman’s peak’, a very beautiful place from where we could see the bay merging with the Atlantic Ocean.
We drove from there few kms further to a wine tasting place. These places having mild climate are major wine producing areas. It was a well made cafeteria. For a price we are served small portions of different varieties of wine and the bartender keeps explaining its age and place from the grapes are procured etc. It was a different experience. But for novice like me and Venkat the taste was uniformly `yucky’. Only we felt a little warm in the cold weather. As we completed the wine testing which took an hr or so, the cloudy weather was clearing up for the Cape visit, the end of Africa and S.Africa.
In fact the continent forks in the end giving two land mass as the end points, one is named Cape of Good Hope and other Cape town.
We first drove Cape of Good Hope called so for in olden days after long voyage it was the first land mass the mariners get to see. Here similar to Indian Kanyakumari we were to witness the coming together of two gigantic seas the Indian Ocean from the east and Atlantic Ocean from the west. There is a rocky hillock there climbing on which we could view the vast never ending strikingly blue ocean stretch.
From the hillock Raghu and Prerna decided to walk across to the Cape point through a shortcut while myself and Venkat picked up the car and reached the cape point by road.
At cape point there is a similar hillock having a watch tower. At the base we were met by R& P. We climbed the hill to view again the meeting of the two gigantic oceans, the sight was truly humbling.
Here we had an interesting meeting of a young Indian Tamil couple, whose families have been living in S.Africa for more than 100 yrs. What was surprising was they have retained their nativity. They were both looked calm, clear headed and parents of five small children starting form the ages of eight or so. The children were traveling with them; the smallest was one yr old. In spite of their job of taking care of the kids , they were out of the way helpful and gave us their phone no’s to get in touch if req.
Raghu & Prerna took another detour for a km or so. There was a path leading to an end pt. of Cape pt. peninsula. So they walked over there to reach and feel the farthest point while myself and Venkat came down the hillock and waited for them.
From Cape point we drove down to Cape Penguin point. We were eager to see the S.African Penguins. Our first encounter of any real penguins in life apart from what we see in photos and TV’s .
These penguins housed closed to the sea, they stay in colonies. We discovered a penguin like human beings (most of them) have only one pair for life. But S.African penguins were of a smaller category. We get a feeling they are a cross between a duck and a mammal with their webbed feet and upright walking. It was fun to watch them against the back drop of rippling sea. After spending a good chunk of time and photo sessions later we left to Simon’s town and decided to try outside food. It was an out and out English town and being Raghu’s birthday too it was celebration time. . We could locate without much trouble Veg. food of garlic bread, ubiquitous Pizza and pasta, Banana milk shakes.
Reached back home, to the now cozy villa , had bath and continued R.birth day by cake cutting, with some music, dance etc. and hit bed after a good fruitful day of having seen the Cape of good hope and two gigantic oceans coming together.
22nd March
Today was the day to leave the exclusive villa Tarragon. We decided to use the inviting private swimming pool. Though there was no swimming trunk myself and Venkat entered the pool the desi way. It was refreshing and Prerna and Raghu followed. After the pool bath it was breakfast in the open. The place costed us 1000R per day. Rs.6500. They are self service units, hence food is not an issue.
At 10.35 we were on the road going to Table Mountains, above Cape town. The path along the sea and up the mountains we could get the panoramic view of the entire Cape town. But unfortunately the cable car which was supposed to take us up was not working that day due to heavy winds. Raghu & Prerna always on look out for adventure decided to walk it up while myself and Venkat did a one hr climb and returned to the base. Then we took the vehicle and went round Cape town a bit. It was 3.30 pm by the time R& P returned after a tough climb up the mountains.
Now our target was to reach George town 250 km from Cape town. It was already 4.00 p.m when we started. However we might have gone for half an hr when the car started behaving odd. The wheels were wobbling a little on speeding. As we did not want to take risk at such high speeds, we phoned the car company Hertz for a remedy. They suggested us to get back to Cape town and swap another vehicle at their service centre. So it was a return trip back. This time out we got a smaller vehicle Kia-Rio. It was nearly 6.00 p.m when we started again. The dusk was falling fast. We drove for two hrs along a sparsely populated country side with few small towns in between. By 8.00 pm we decided to halt at the closest town, a town called Swellendum. As it was pretty dark we had no moorings of the place. We just halted at a place where it was written bed & break fast.
It turned out to be a small quaint cottage owned by a Dutch person. It was entirely different experience to Tarragon. The beds were packed one below and one above a wooden roof which has to be climbed by wooden railings. There was a small drawing cum kitchen but well provided. We had no choice over the rate and place. We checked in and got an idea of the surrounding only in the morning.
23rd March
As dawn broke we got an idea of swellendum and the cottage. It was on a hillock with nice flower beds in the front. A dog and a cat came to greet us when we got out.
We left the place at 9.00 a.m after bath and breakfast. We reached Mossal bay about 200 kms from Swellendum by 10.30 a.m. After stepping down and a look and inspection of the place , we decided to drive further 40 kms and stay at George town as it is a better equipped place and easier for us to board the flight back.
We drove straight to the information centre and looked for suitable accommodations. We found a self service unit fitting our budget soon. It was a good place. A little bit like Tarragon with 3 bedrooms and well equipped drawing and kitchen units but not that elaborate. We checked in and had our pre prepared lunch. After settling our things here we drove to a place called Kynsna about 60 km from George town towards the coast.
The attraction of the place was, it has a beautiful Lagoon, large water body around which kynsna town is build on large tracts of flat hillocks surrounding it. (A lagoon is a place where sea enters the land and makes a lake.) . We were keen to go for a ride in one of the boats there. But suitable boats like yachts were not available then. Hence we spent some time doing a bit of shopping in the attractive shopping arcade there and returned to the new cottage at George called orchard cottage by evening and settled for the night.
24th March
The place at George was a self service unit, the kitchen provided with vessels and cutleries. By now we had developed in settling and fixing our meal at any new place. The place was comfortable. After preparing breakfast and array on lunch for the way, our programme was to drive to oudtshoorn a 60 km drive from George in another direction Knysna, lying on the Garden route it had many attractions lined up.
In fact we had planned an itenary along Garden route from Cape town to George and to outdshoorn and Knysna all lying along the S.African south east coast. But as we drove from Cape town first 250 km to George and then 60 km to Oudtshoorn and another direction 60 km to Knysna, we could find long patches of arid and dry land with not a soul to be seen, no houses, no cultivation and around George the crux of garden route some greenery and activity did exist but to an Indian eye used to lush tropical trees and miles and miles of cultivated land, these places hardly looked well endowed with greenery.
But the landscape had its own beauty. It was vast, unending, mostly having more bushes and shrubbery. Trees are sparing and few. No wonder African land is many times referred as bush land.
The Oudtshoorn where we were driving had long tracks of ostrich farms. We found hundreds and hundreds of Ostrich roaming around in the large tracts of lands all by itself, more like cattle grazing around! As there is hardly anyone around to man it, we found both for houses and farms people resort to electric fences which is a good deterrent for anyone to enter or come out. It was interesting to watch the ostrich which had human like expression. We got down to observe them in close quarters and had our photo sessions. Ostriches are like `Kamadenu’ here. It’s a big business out here. Every part is utilized. The ostrich meat sells in good price. The eggs are eaten and shells made into artifacts. The feathers are also used to make variety of things. In fact oudtshoorn is the ostrich capital of the world exporting many feather items.
Here another big business is to make private game park where lat many animals including star attractions the carnivorous like Lions, tigers, cheetah, Leopard (the big cats) are kept well and made into tourist attraction with good entry fee, guides to explain and make it more interesting and special features as to allow you to go near cubs of these wild animals where the visitors get the thrill to go near touch and fondle them all for a fee. We went now to such a game park in the outskirts of oudtshoorn. It had a good variety of wild life. Fish, turtles, crocodiles, vultures, cranes, flamingoes, lemur ,pygmy hippos, diving into the crocodile pond through a cage, cheetah-cheetah cubs, tigers & tiger cubs, lion & lion cubs. All well kept and very cutely explained by a young English girl. Raghu & Prerna went into the enclosure of Cheetha cubs. There were 5 to 6 cubs a bit oversized for a cub. But well used to human beings .Being a hot afternoon they were lazily lying down. R&P had a good thrill fondling them and came out happy and excited. Later they converted one of the photos to a T-shirt in the near by counter there and also got photo frames of their photo with the cubs( the entry fee 150Rands each for 10 minute to be with the Cheetah cubs with three forest guides in tow)
From the game park we drove to the famous Cango caves – A most spectacular and huge underground caves, very well maintained with lights and guided tours.
The caves which are massive and extending to few kms inside the earth.
For about a km or so the pathway has massive opening, insides almost like an auditorium with huge columns of crystallized limestone as huge pillars and sheets of folded crystal columns looking like artistic curtains.
After about a km the path narrows for another km inside which has to be negotiated with difficulty, crawling, sliding through narrow opening etc.
The first half was called standard path, the second half the adventure path. While we opted for the standard path R& P opted for the adventure path. Ours was a 60minute guided tour and theirs was a 90 minute path. (going and coming)
It was thrilling experience to see this natures wonder , one of the biggest caves under earth which was discovered 200 yrs back accidentally by an English man, later it took several yrs gradually to trace the entire pathway. Now it is well laid out for anyone to go and view it.
Raghu & prerna however found the going a bit tough. With the interior pathways a bit stifling with out air to breath too. However they had the satisfaction of having gone through a tough and interesting adventure.
Returned back to George by 7.00 p.m. Halted enroute at a view point facing the hills and our packed meals as dinner. Here the shops close by 7.00 p.m. Hence we had to rush and pick up groceries, water, veggies and return back home (to the orchard cottage) .
25 th March
The morning dawned in Orchard villa in a undeceive note. Raghu & Prerna had their mind set on sky diving. It was a sport advertised at Mossal bay. Raghu had his mind for some time on this sport. Though it sounded scary to us, he assured us it is done with a safety element called tandem jumping. The method you have a qualified person attached to you while jumping down from the hts of the plane. After a initial free fall the person behind takes over in the parachute. It would be a unique experience. They had plans to do it and they made enquires to the person concerned. He told to report by 8.30 a.m at mossal bay 55kms away from George.
However though he had told he will inform the place to report by night fall, no information had come till morning. Hence we started exploring other options of outings.
Venkat had wanted to yachting (going by sail boat) in the Knysna lagoon. We decided to try that out. Fixing of the programmed was done with out much hassle. We could hire a private yacht for an hr & half. The time was fixed for 11.00 a.m. Our check out time from Orchard cottage was 10.00 a.m. So we hurried up with our breakfast & lunch preparation etc and were ready by 9.45 a.m. Left by 10.00 a.m sharp to Knysna 60 km far. We reached their by 11.00 a.m. The yacht and the yachtsman one Mr. Stephan with his helper was waiting for us. It was a nice sail boat with motor power option. The place with chic shops, Restaurant, a Venice like place all close to water front. There was a novel lift up bridge which is lifted up whenever a big boat or yacht has to cross the other side, later it is put back to act as a bridge.
The yacht called `Outenique “ started by 11.15 a.m. The crew was friendly giving us interesting information of life around there. They were also keen to know about India. Having heard some richest men of the world like Mithal & Ambani are from India.
Initially the yacht was going in a comfortable pace as it was negotiating the lagoon> it’s a large water body surrounded by flat hills all along. Pretty roofed dwellings are made all around. It was a good sight to watch sitting peacefully in the slow moving yacht. Soon we reached the mouth of the lagoon and were out in the sea.-The Indian Ocean. The chemistry changed immediately. The waves came lapping up making the yacht to turn and twist. We were feeling thrilled but it was a bit scary. We were asked to put our life jackets in case! Added to that the captain had dished out the news that everyday like the divers enter the water to fish out for drowned bodies. But he assured the ocean is not that turbulent that day. And tried to bring down our panic levels. Though he and his assistant also were wearing life jackets. Any way we were enjoying the experience. Riding a small open yacht in the huge Indian ocean. Then we got the bonus. We all spotted a big leather backed brown turtle. It just showed itself for a minute or so and dipped back. Even veteran sailor Stephan was excited. He told rarely he has seen turtle over his long sojourns into the sea. That got him excited and he turned the yacht round and round around the same place to spot the turtle again , we could spot it again 2 more times. I remembered seeing a sea turtle brings good luck and considered to be a good omen. We then reluctantly moved out of the ocean and entered the lagoon head along the imposing rock cliff which acts like a gate into lagoon. Rode back and reached the yacht parking head close to the array of shops and restaurants. We were the only one yachting at that time and we had lot of onlookers looking at the group of Indians on to traveling and adventure.
From Yachting we moved our scene fast and started driving back at around 1.30 p.m as we had a plane to catch at 5.00 p.m from George town.
As we were passing through Kynsna town, we got attracted by the sleek shopping arcade and the African craft stalls found there. Further in our hurry of traveling and seeing places we had hardly allotted time for shopping African curios.
So we got down and moving through the shops time just slipped by. Then we came across an Italian run restaurant having interesting menu and open places to sit and eat. With lunch time rumblings on we sat for a pizza and assorted drinks. The pizza was really authentic made by the Italian chef in wood fire etc. It was 3.30 by the time we moved off from Knysna town to 65 km off George airport. When we landed at George it was a neck to neck race as we had to return the rented car and rush with the luggage not properly arranged with 10 to 12 assorted pieces and we were one of the last to be stamped in before the counter was closing for aircraft. Thus we made the trip saving ourselves at the nick of the time.
We reached J.Burg airport by 6.45 p.m after a one hr and 45 mts flight covering 2000kms. So now we had moved off from Southern most tip of S. Africa Cape town – George to mid north of S.Africa at J.Burg, another big town of S.Africa. The third big town of S.Africa is Durban close to the coast that is were most of the Indians are living. Durban was not in our itenary but Raghu having seen and described the place. It was here max. Indians who had arrived to S.Africa via the port more than 150 yrs back as traders, slaves & labourers bought in by Europeans. But by now their living style has improved with education.
Here things work so admiringly or was it for us! It is more so with the system of the place. As soon as we entered there was a vehicle waiting for us in the parking lot sent by Raghu’s firm.
We picked our luggage and boarded our car to drive back from J.Burg to home at Wit bank (150 km off) and were home by 8.30 p.m after 6 days of interesting trips, getting to know S.Africa.
26th March
We had little time to sit back and ruminate about our 6 day S.African trip as we had to get set for the 3 day Kruger National park trip.
Kruger game park, I learned was one of the biggest game park of the world holding whole lot of precious endangered animals> Lying in the N.eastern part of S.Africa in a latitude similar to India between 20 to 24` S.latiude spreading over 360 km length and 60 km wide having neighboring countries as Mozambique as border, where also the area extends, thus the animals have a long terrain to move around.
In fact the Trans frontier area (comprising of area from S.Africa Kruger national park, area in Mozambique and Zimbaive) has a total area of 35,000 sq kms, the largest conservatory area for animals in the world where they can still hope to have a free time some time to come.
Drive to Kruger park from Wit bank was about 350 km approx. There are several gates to enter Kruger. We chose to enter from the southernmost gate called Crocodile bridge gate close to Mozambique. Starting from home around 9.30 a.m after breakfast and packed food we reached the Kruger, Kamatipoor area and entered the gate around 2.00 p.m
In Kruger the set up is you have long winding roads cutting into the area. At the entrance one is given a map showing roads, waterways, gates, rest places etc. One has to drive around slowly keeping the hears and eyes tuned out scouting for animals. It is like a hide and seek game. It is pure luck if we get to see the animals. It can be hiding behind a bush or plainly walking in the road or gone for a bath in a water body or lazily grazing around in the abundance of grass grounds around.
We got spruced to the game as soon as we entered the park. We made teams as one to look right and one to look left other to look straight and one to look at the map and animals to identify and take photos if an animal is spotted.
We were lucky right from the start. As the crocodile gate was close to water bodies and time was right after hot noon hrs , the animals mostly grass eaters were out. We could right away spot wilder beast (Neel gai), Zebras, Elephants, Giraffes, Rhinos close to the road. We then got tips about Cheetah sighting from passers by. We went on a detour for 4 kms and found this Cheetah pair. Nicely perched on a tree. By then many had got the hit. There was lot many cars making a circle around the ground where Cheetha’s were fund. They were oblivious of the gazes and for long time the pair was perched on the tree showing their antics. It was a good and rare sight.
By the time dusk was falling. As per rules we had to reach the camp Shukaza where we had been booked by 6.00 p.m. After 6.00 no one is allowed to be out in the national park.
We rushed to reach our camp by the correct time or else if the gates close we will be left in wilderness. As we were rushing through, it was getting dark and suddenly a pack of wild dogs surfaced right on our path. It was a very rare sight as these are only about 300 of them in the entire area.
We stopped the car and too some snaps, but it was a bit scary as they are ferocious and it seems they tear the prey in no time, leaving no chance for defense.
It was 6.15 p.m by the time we reached the gates. The authorities were stickler to rules. They charged a fine of 220 R (Rs 1200) for late arrival. However as Raghu explained that we lost our way on a `loop’ etc, they conceded and decreased the fine to 100R.
In fact getting an accommodation inside Kruger is not very easy as accommodations are limited. Run by govt., no private enterprise is allowed in. If one doesn’t get a Kruger accommodation then one has to stay in numerous hotels outside Kruger. There is a football stadium next to Kruger where the coming world food ball match will be held.
Raghu’s S.African colleague one Mr. Joe had procured for him 2 huts in his name, Later we met Joe and family, an elderly gentle man of above 50, a typical S.African white, heavy built. They had come to camp with the family in their traveling Caravan units. He met us and invited us to meet his family group consisting of his wife, wife’s sister, her husband and fried family. So we got an opportunity to interact with an S.African family and find out a bit about their life style.
Gradually we were getting some idea of Indian’s in the scheme of things in S.Africa where the two human races whites and blacks are pitched against one another. Right from the start there is hardly any social interaction between the two groups. Where as it looked Indians can get a common ground more with whites than blacks. Perhaps education is a leveler. Raghu found his white colleagues are more forthcoming to interact even call them few times for food while the blacks working in the office were not that keen to interact, though Raghu had kept an equal pitch with both the groups.
Here we found Joe’s family and the extended family were very warm. All the members of the group were out and ready to receive us. We gave them some gifts brought from India while Mrs. Joe presented some home made rusks. Here S.African whites are more laid back, relaxed and family oriented. They have a good sized family. Mrs. Joe’s sister had four girls while Joe & Mrs. Joe were grand pa and grand ma.
Now coming to our Kruger Skukza camp we found our accommodation consisted of pretty hut like structures each unit self contained having beds, bathrooms, fridge, kitchenette and cutleries for preparing meal. The thatched hut like units completely blended with the surrounding. The lights were dim. In fact when we reached the camp it had become dark and we had to grope around searching for respective huts.
Another trait of the camp was cooking has to be done in a common semi open area where hot plates and running water is provided. At these times the rice cooker we had carted from India came as a good source to cook. The dinner was rice prepared in rice cooker and ready to eat Rajmash heated up and soup from the soup packets we had taken along.
Thus dinner was ready in a short time and we took to bed early. The next day morning we were scheduled to get up early to view the nocturnal animals and carnivorous which can be spotted only in early morning hrs.
27th March 2010
We were awake and ready by 5.00 a.m . By 5.30 a.m all of us had hopped into the car and out in the roads. This is called`pajama’ rounds. There were many cars in procession all scouting for the elusive animals. Trying our early morning luck.
And we did see them right away. The pack of wild dogs we had seen fleetingly in the evening was spotted again. This s time we could take video shots too. Later we learned there are many in spite of several visits have not seen the wild dogs at all. So it all depends on pure chance to spot the animals. In the morning round we saw baboons, vervet monkeys and other grazers which we had seen the day before.
After retuning back and attending to our morning routines we started out in enthusiasm for the next round about elevenish. The day was hot and our luck seems now to be running thin. For miles and miles, hrs on end there was no animals to be seen. Finally at a water spot we saw two full grown elephants. They were frolicking, going into to mock fights, giving us ample photo sessions.
We returned by 6.00 p.m but disappointed the search was not so fruitful like the previous day, especially we had not seen many of the big five. The big five are Lion, Leopard, wild buffalo, Rhino and elephant.
28th March –
THE DAY OF HIGH DRAMA
We were exhausted by the previous day long hunt for animals and decided to skip the early `pajama’ tour exercise and had a fitful sleep.
Then it was a visit to Mr. Joe (Raghu’s colleague & friend) & family.
It was nearly ten when we started the trip vacating the Szukuza camp premises.
Our plan was to move from Shukuza gate to crocodile bridge gate about 60 km run is slow motion.
It was a pretty dry run to start with but the day was cool, it had rained and we had hoped we should see the animals coming out in opposite to previous day logic of hot day and no animals.
But the animals seem to be having a siesta in the cool shades and they were spotted few and far between. We were still short of seeing 3 of the big five.
It was about 3.00 p.m, we had come to our tethers end, then suddenly we got a tip from a passer by, to move along the side road as they had spotted both Rhino and Lion there.
We rushed there praying for a last minute luck opening and we get to see the Lion.
It was like a scene right out of African Safari. In a water front, first we spotted a huge Rhino basking in the sun, next to that in good visibility were a herd of wild buffaloes. In the fore ground was a big herd of handsome Impalas moving around. And in the vicinity next to the bush where our vehicle was parked, hardly 10 ft away were 2 big lions. Wow what a sight!
We decided to park the car there itself and see the drama unfolding for it was a clear scene of Lion hunt, hiding in the bushes with its favorite prey’s Deer and Buffalo in large no.s grazing in vicinity.
One of the Lions moved off to other side while the buffaloes and Impalas were sharpening their reflexes. We felt perhaps it’s an ambush the Lion is planning. Then all the buffaloes herded together and sat in a tight line with a leader in the front. It looked as a defense team. The deer was however fearless. They went close to the Lion. We thought here we are going to witness a kill. By the time lot more motorists had assembled armed with their powerful cameras. We waited there for an hr and half forgoing our lunch and waiting to see the lunch of the Lion.
But the drama was going unendingly with the Lions moving position but not getting to the real act. Then raghu recalled Lion generally kill only in twilight or night hrs. We decided then to quit the scene.
Just as we backed a little to move off. The Deers suddenly sensing an impending danger pranced and started running in panic crossing the road. Something like sprint runners. Soon the Lion followed, pouncing and running behind the deers, crossing the road, oblivious of all the motorists and onlookers.
The call of the hunger has no inhibitions. But poor thing it was an abortive attempt. Perhaps with the wall of the motorist around it lost its sight and moorings for a deer chase. It returned back to the high grass.
But it was a great sight for all of us. It looked like the Lion decided to so a high drama purely for entertainment sake so that all onlookers can go back satisfied.
We left supremely happy of having witnesses a real life drama in Kruger which we felt would have been a rare sight to any one, including old timers except the fortunate!
We rushed then to be out of Kruger by 6.00 p.m there was a 3 hr drive to get back home.
Through out the trips both Raghu and Prerna were altering to be in the wheel for driving. For though the road was fine, the distances were long and the driver requires relief time to time. We found these trips around S.Africa for last 10 days had taken us 3000 km of journey by road excluding the 2000 km we did by air from J.Burg. to George town. Thus the landscape of S.africa got well etched in our eyes.
The vast vistas of beautiful countryside, the well made for roads and facilities for tourists to move around are world class. The one snag was the underlying fear of criminals or the black under privileged attacking. To get over that and wee S.Africa, the answer would to join a well organized tour. S.Africa as a tourist destination can be put in the top grade.
.
South Africa is the southern most part of Africa. It is a fairly large country lying in the latitude 22'S to 34'S in the southern hemisphere. It has population of 45 millions and half the size of India compared to India having a population of One thousand one hundred million /1.1 billion people.
Our destination was Johannesburg one of the well known cities of South Africa. It is close to the capital Pretoria and accts as the commercial capital of South Africa. Johannesburg is an old settlement of English (whites) who came there in droves two centuries back in search of gold. Still the place has active mining and the underground of South Africa continues to be rich with mineral resources. Apart from Gold it has coal, uranium and diamonds in large quantities. That attracted the settlers who made the land theirs in two centuries bringing in a complete western set up to the South African country.
Now the roads, the buildings the architecture and the system of living with huge malls and flashy individual cars to drive makes it in all ways a western country. The local (blacks) are seen as more as a labour class, their art and music come to fore at places and also wild animals which are still abundant in South Africa are venerated by building large game parks which is also becoming a good tourist attraction.
We started this journey to South Africa to get the flavor of this land and also to be with raghu who has been involved with a management project there. The crux of the project was an Indian company GMR had bought some coal mines in the out skirts of Johannesburg. They discovered the mines were a loosing proposition (economically) after buying them. So KPMG consultants were called into the picture to turn the tables and make the purchase economically viable. Raghu and others have been working in it for last about six months and it was getting time for Raghu to come out of it. So we timed our journey in such a way that shortly Prerna too can join us and at this point Raghu can manage to take a one week break and combining with two day week ends on either side , we planned a ten day ternary to go around South Africa.
However we were a wee bit early, thought the first week we will stay back with Raghu, pick up our energies and also start getting to know the place.
Our journey started on 11th march from Bangalore. We were booked to fly Emirates which was routed via Dubai.
The flight was at 10.30 am. However we started the day early at 5.00 am itself keeping in mind a long way to the Bangalore airport, the immigration clearance and a two hr before reporting time. We reached the airport well in time at 7.30 am; the immigration was no hassle and was in the flight by 9.50 am. Emirates the prized Middle East airlines was a well laid out aircraft. We had a four hr flight to Dubai. We settled ourselves comfortably in the window seats offered to us and were eyeing the airhostess who were a treat to watch. Fair, tall, handsome with Arabic features, their attire too was catching attention. Wearing a bronze colored pant & suit, they have a fancy head gear, a white scarf to cover the head with and a bright red topi. The 4 hr journey went off well eyeing Bangalore by air and Dubai by air sitting in the window seats.
At Dubai their was an 11/2 hr halt. We took the opportunity to look around (Dubai) duty free shops and the attractive make up of the Dubai transit lounge.
Soon we checked in to the Johannesburg section for boarding into our next flight. Here the co-passengers gave us an idea of what South African populace hence we have to encounter. It was a sprinkle of whites and blacks, all well built and broadly set in tune with the expansive and rich country they stay in.
Our next flight started at 3.00 pm (Dubai time). It was an 8hr flight to Johannesburg. We again got the window seats. By now we were used to the Emirate air fairies and also a bit flight wary, added to that we got a mini shock to know there is no vegetarian meals in the flight as they forgot to enlist our vegetarian request in the list. The air fairies came to our rescue by dishing out fruits, juices and breads.
The aircraft touched the tarmac at 9.30 pm (South African time). It is 31/2 hrs behind us as it is in the west of India where sun reaches later. Johannasburg airport (called O.R.Thambo airport) is an impressive one. We have to walk nearly 1 km of well laid out route with escalators and moving pathways to reach our baggage claim area. Collecting our baggage when we came out of the airport we were met with a beaming Raghu who was extremely happy to find us in the South African soil.
Drive to Wit bank from J,burg , about 150 km, where Raghu was put up took just little more than one hr at a speed of 120 km per hr along roads which resembled airport runways in its sleekness and polish. Thus we arrived Raghu’s place at mid night of 11th at 12 `o’ clock.
A long day of 11th, starting at 5.00 am (Indian time) and ending at 3, 30 am (Indian time)
12th .As expected our biological clock was topsy turvy. We tried to catch our sleep suiting to the rhythm of night spread around. However we were wide awake by 5.00 am (Indian time 8.30 am). It was then we got the moorings as where we have landed in wit bank.
Our housing was at a nicely made up two bed roomed service apartment called crest wave villas having about more than 30 such units in a gated compound. Each house was well appointed. The bed rooms have bed and accessories, while the kitchen was opening to the drawing room & had cutleries, vessels for cooking, four plated hot plates, hot& cold water, cutting boards and drawing room had the necessary props as sofa and TV set which has an opening to a sit out having a cane set to sit and bask in the sun. The bath had a bath tub with hot & cold showers.
In fact it was a surprise news to us to know that Raghu had moved to this service apartment, just 4 days ago from his bachelor outfit so that it will serve the purpose when Prerna also arrives.
We spread our wares, loaded the Indian provision bought from Bangalore into the kitchen shelves as the people here thrive in heavy N.Vegetarian fare so we had come armed with dals, masalas, rice, atta etc.
The 12th Friday was a peaceful day getting our moorings to the S.African setting. For Raghu it was a tight day. He left after getting some veggies from close by Veg& fruit mart and went for work and returned only by eightish. We were told these areas looking so sleek and smart are actually crime prone and not to stir out of the compound especially after dark.
Looking out of the apartment verandah what strikes first about the place is its beautiful skyline. The skies are stark blue and expansive. The air clean and seemed to be charged with un polluted
energy. In S.Africa more so in Wit bank people are few and far between, staying in well manicured huge houses, the air is clean, the roads are good. One would say it is picture perfect. We were told lurking behind the scene is a huge, seething disgruntlement between haves and have-nots, between whites & blacks which erupts into crime.
13th
The day was relatively peaceful for us. Our orientation was happening gradually. We were feeling sleepy early and chirpy before dawn. We learnt to have our way by walk to near by veg and fruit market and learn to do shopping in rands by ourselves. However for every veg we were ending up multiplying by Rs. 6.50 . Thus we were astonished tomatoes, potatoes at 16 R (i.e. about 100 Rs a kg and measly coriander leaf and curry leaf at 6rand (aboutRs.40). Also got acquainted to the near by mall.
Being a service apartment a maid comes at 10.00am to clean the house, do the vessels and laundry. For Raghu it was a working day inspite of being a week end. However his office is nearby hence going and coming is not a hassle. Also being provided with a vehicle a Hyundai I -20 which can be driven at the strength of Indian driving license, transport to office or anywhere is not a problem.
14th
This day was Sunday and turned out to be day of great outing. When we got a major exposure to the famous wild life games of S.Africa.
We left home at 8.30 am with packed food. First it was a 150 km drive to J-Burg when we got the first glimpse of S.African Landscape.
The roads as I had mentioned were excellent. The scenery was miles and miles of rolling grass land, vast and spread out with the flat lands on either side extending till the horizon. On reaching J.Burg we had to take a detour of amount 40 km to reach a private game park having numerous lions and other animals.
We were particularly going to witness the famous lion feeding event which takes place every Sunday at 12.00 noon (i.e.) then open to visors.
When we reached the game park , consisting of acres of private land , cordoned off for keeping animals, we found the place already filled with visitors who and come like us to witness the lion feeding . We even spotted some Indians (tamilians) & exchanged talk with them.
It was 11 `0. Clock when we reached there. We rushed then with our car to the lion feeding area.
There are pockets of small open spaces around which people positioned themselves in their cars. Exactly at 12`o. clock trucks arrived followed in each of the opening by packs of lions and lioness. There was one male lion in each of the gang followed by 8 to 10 lioness, something like a harem I suppose.
The people in the trucks threw the meat in the open places and the lions ferociously go and attack the meat & try to price the best pieces for themselves. All this was happening just fts away from us while we sit in the car locked up, positioning our cameras for the scenes unfolding.
Invariably we found the lion picks the best piece and coolly walks to a secluded shady area while the lioness fight over the rest of the pieces. The lions are so concentrated on the food that they don’t even pass a side glance to the `janata’ sitting in cars in so close quarters clicking away their photos. Some lions while crossing path came just patting distance to our car and we could tell hello to them, not that they cared.
We drove around 2 to 3 open places like this and seeing different prides of lions had a real `paisa vassul’ sights of lion and lioness fighting , slurping the meat piece and jauntily walking past the car and lazing around after the meal> It was a sight indeed,
Then our march was on to the Lion cub’s enclosure. There are lion cubs kept there for everybody’s entertainment. There was a queue fot it. Groups of 8 to 10 people are left inside, to be in proximity to lion cubs, to fondle them like kittens and take snaps to say, here we are brave enough to go and touch a lion. Let it may be a cub. It was an experience indeed. Though they are cubs it’s a bit scary to touch them. We had our share of photo sessions.
Then we moved to open eating places where we could spread our wares and eat the food bought by us.
We could also see on the side some giraffes, Zebras, Ostriches, Hyena, Cheetah, guzzle etc.
The day was still left. It was sunny and bright. From the game park now we moved to the city J.Burg. Raghu took us there directly to the Rise bank mall. Only on Sunday in the mall open the roof top there is held a roof top handicraft fare where all Saurian handicrafts are displayed. Some thing akin to our Indian open markets with different make shift stalls selling their fares.
There were beautiful handicrafts sold their, mostly figures and articles made of jet black ebony wood, lot of masks, oyster shell handicrafts, wooden art pieces, jewelry etc.
We could not buy much for one the time was short to examine. We had just an hr to rush through as shops close by 5 `o. clock and added to that the prices the rands converted were getting to astronomical amounts and we required time to digest, think and buy. Finally we rushed into a govt. handicrafts and bought few things.
Coming out of the mall we drove through J.Burg , the once famous gold mining capital of the world, we found the city still well kept and preserved. There was hardly any feeling of rush & crowd even in the heart of the city though presently it is termed as the crime capital of the world but for the nondiscerning eye it was looking all cool and neat.
We returned home after the night fall doing about 380 km of driving that day.
After reaching home, as it was the nombu day, I had a head bath, made vella payasam and observed nombu with yellow threads brought from India.
We had carted off from India the Gods, lamp for lighting, vibhuthi, kumkum etc. so that we can observe the morning evening prayer ritual.
15th, 16th, &17th.
They were fairly routine days. As it was working days for Raghu, he had to leave early most of the days coming back late hence we were left to ourselves.
Some blessing was Raghu maneuvered to get a car for us and encouraged Venkat to drive it. So myself & Venkat could go for small drives to pick up groceries. We didn’t venture out much as we were not sure which areas are cordoned off as crime places.
We were infect placed in up country were everything looked hunky dory.
Also we were doing the evening walks and getting an idea of the neighborhood.
Raghu’s close collegue and friend, one Mr. Anshuman was winding up and leaving after a six month stay. He was coming for food as he had wound up his kitchen and also loaded all his remaining Indian provisions on us.
In fact he & Raghu were shacking it together till recently, cooking together, going for outing all over S.Africa in the weekends.
With out good companion stay in such places can become tedious and long drawn.
19th March –
Today Prerna arrived from India. Her flight landed at Johannasburg at 9.00 a.m. Raghu had been to the airport to bring her home. Myself and Venkat bought a bouquet of flowers from nearby Veg & fruit mart as well got the lunch ready.
As scheduled they arrived by 10.30 a.m ,so now our team was ready to embark on the trip to see S.Africa starting from 20th, the next day.
Evening as Raghu arrived from work early we went around witbank. .
There is an impressive Casino here. In fact the most impressive and prominent building of any town out here are casinos. Wit bank had one. Spacious and attractively build where Raghu was telling people come in droves during week ends when they get their pay to try their luck either to double it or loose it.
Then Raghu took us to the black areas of Witbank. They are a bit pathetic. It’s like seeing a well laid out drawing room and then having a peep at the shabby back yard. The blacks live in shabby quarters, the roads and lay out are a far cry from the white localities. It’s like seeing any under developed country. So now we could understand the reason for crime, the disparity between haves and have-nots is huge.
Any way we drove through with caution, with crime being high, the risk factor of driving through these areas was high.
20th March
Today our S.African tour started. We planned our trip from George town which was S.west of J.Burg about nearly 1800 km far. As the distance was far we decided to fly the distance to save time and energy.
We had been booked by a local flight called 1 time flight at 11.00 a.m... So we left home by 8.30 a.m. Raghu had some work in his office at Witbank. So initially we drove their, saw his office and he met his `sardhar’ boss from India. Then drove directly to J.Burg, 150km away, the O.R. Thamba airport. We reached their by 10.00 a.m. Picking up some bread based items from the cafeteria from the airport, we boarded our 1time flight. All four of us were allotted four different seats as the flight was tightly packed with all week end travelers going to Cape town.
The week end traveling is a very much imprinted thing in their national psyche. Hence most of the scenically good places have been developed and kept well for the holiday goers. I think this way you get tuned to nature more often. It’s a trait worth imbibing for Indians too.
We reached George town by 1`0’ clock, a 2 hr flight. Soon after landing at the airport, Raghu as per previous arrangement went & hired a car for rent to be used in the rest of the 6 day travel. He picked up a Toyota Corolla, a roomy car with dickey space. We could house our luggage comfortably and could be driven by all of us as Indian license was Ok for S.Africa. But it was Raghu & Prerna who were alternatively in the wheel.
We then hit the highway and drove to our appointed place of staying 35km far. The place was a beautiful villa nestled in a mini hillock. It was called Tarragon villa. Here for travel to a new place you have to have a road map for like in India it is hard to find any way siders whom you can address `bholo bhai’ and get your way described . But the road signs are clear, non confusing if we watch out& one can find a way in an unknown place if we are on look out with a map.
We reached the villa shortly. The place was like a mini heaven, Trimmed grass with gleaming fresh water in the private swimming pool, the rooms spacious, having 3 bedrooms, living space and kitchenette. Every thing very artistically built and arranged. The bedrooms were opening to the sky by a roof ventilator, bath rooms had brown masonry, closed shower rooms with hot and cold showers.
21st march
It was Raghu’s Birth day. It opened in Cape town, the farthest, southern most corner of S.Africa. .
We were actually in a place called Haut bay in Cape town area. We started out after break fast at 9.50 a.m. Within 10km drive we were in haut bay proper where Atlantic Ocean enters into a rocky out cliff making a bay, a quieter sea area. We halted at `Chapman’s peak’, a very beautiful place from where we could see the bay merging with the Atlantic Ocean.
We drove from there few kms further to a wine tasting place. These places having mild climate are major wine producing areas. It was a well made cafeteria. For a price we are served small portions of different varieties of wine and the bartender keeps explaining its age and place from the grapes are procured etc. It was a different experience. But for novice like me and Venkat the taste was uniformly `yucky’. Only we felt a little warm in the cold weather. As we completed the wine testing which took an hr or so, the cloudy weather was clearing up for the Cape visit, the end of Africa and S.Africa.
In fact the continent forks in the end giving two land mass as the end points, one is named Cape of Good Hope and other Cape town.
We first drove Cape of Good Hope called so for in olden days after long voyage it was the first land mass the mariners get to see. Here similar to Indian Kanyakumari we were to witness the coming together of two gigantic seas the Indian Ocean from the east and Atlantic Ocean from the west. There is a rocky hillock there climbing on which we could view the vast never ending strikingly blue ocean stretch.
From the hillock Raghu and Prerna decided to walk across to the Cape point through a shortcut while myself and Venkat picked up the car and reached the cape point by road.
At cape point there is a similar hillock having a watch tower. At the base we were met by R& P. We climbed the hill to view again the meeting of the two gigantic oceans, the sight was truly humbling.
Here we had an interesting meeting of a young Indian Tamil couple, whose families have been living in S.Africa for more than 100 yrs. What was surprising was they have retained their nativity. They were both looked calm, clear headed and parents of five small children starting form the ages of eight or so. The children were traveling with them; the smallest was one yr old. In spite of their job of taking care of the kids , they were out of the way helpful and gave us their phone no’s to get in touch if req.
Raghu & Prerna took another detour for a km or so. There was a path leading to an end pt. of Cape pt. peninsula. So they walked over there to reach and feel the farthest point while myself and Venkat came down the hillock and waited for them.
From Cape point we drove down to Cape Penguin point. We were eager to see the S.African Penguins. Our first encounter of any real penguins in life apart from what we see in photos and TV’s .
These penguins housed closed to the sea, they stay in colonies. We discovered a penguin like human beings (most of them) have only one pair for life. But S.African penguins were of a smaller category. We get a feeling they are a cross between a duck and a mammal with their webbed feet and upright walking. It was fun to watch them against the back drop of rippling sea. After spending a good chunk of time and photo sessions later we left to Simon’s town and decided to try outside food. It was an out and out English town and being Raghu’s birthday too it was celebration time. . We could locate without much trouble Veg. food of garlic bread, ubiquitous Pizza and pasta, Banana milk shakes.
Reached back home, to the now cozy villa , had bath and continued R.birth day by cake cutting, with some music, dance etc. and hit bed after a good fruitful day of having seen the Cape of good hope and two gigantic oceans coming together.
22nd March
Today was the day to leave the exclusive villa Tarragon. We decided to use the inviting private swimming pool. Though there was no swimming trunk myself and Venkat entered the pool the desi way. It was refreshing and Prerna and Raghu followed. After the pool bath it was breakfast in the open. The place costed us 1000R per day. Rs.6500. They are self service units, hence food is not an issue.
At 10.35 we were on the road going to Table Mountains, above Cape town. The path along the sea and up the mountains we could get the panoramic view of the entire Cape town. But unfortunately the cable car which was supposed to take us up was not working that day due to heavy winds. Raghu & Prerna always on look out for adventure decided to walk it up while myself and Venkat did a one hr climb and returned to the base. Then we took the vehicle and went round Cape town a bit. It was 3.30 pm by the time R& P returned after a tough climb up the mountains.
Now our target was to reach George town 250 km from Cape town. It was already 4.00 p.m when we started. However we might have gone for half an hr when the car started behaving odd. The wheels were wobbling a little on speeding. As we did not want to take risk at such high speeds, we phoned the car company Hertz for a remedy. They suggested us to get back to Cape town and swap another vehicle at their service centre. So it was a return trip back. This time out we got a smaller vehicle Kia-Rio. It was nearly 6.00 p.m when we started again. The dusk was falling fast. We drove for two hrs along a sparsely populated country side with few small towns in between. By 8.00 pm we decided to halt at the closest town, a town called Swellendum. As it was pretty dark we had no moorings of the place. We just halted at a place where it was written bed & break fast.
It turned out to be a small quaint cottage owned by a Dutch person. It was entirely different experience to Tarragon. The beds were packed one below and one above a wooden roof which has to be climbed by wooden railings. There was a small drawing cum kitchen but well provided. We had no choice over the rate and place. We checked in and got an idea of the surrounding only in the morning.
23rd March
As dawn broke we got an idea of swellendum and the cottage. It was on a hillock with nice flower beds in the front. A dog and a cat came to greet us when we got out.
We left the place at 9.00 a.m after bath and breakfast. We reached Mossal bay about 200 kms from Swellendum by 10.30 a.m. After stepping down and a look and inspection of the place , we decided to drive further 40 kms and stay at George town as it is a better equipped place and easier for us to board the flight back.
We drove straight to the information centre and looked for suitable accommodations. We found a self service unit fitting our budget soon. It was a good place. A little bit like Tarragon with 3 bedrooms and well equipped drawing and kitchen units but not that elaborate. We checked in and had our pre prepared lunch. After settling our things here we drove to a place called Kynsna about 60 km from George town towards the coast.
The attraction of the place was, it has a beautiful Lagoon, large water body around which kynsna town is build on large tracts of flat hillocks surrounding it. (A lagoon is a place where sea enters the land and makes a lake.) . We were keen to go for a ride in one of the boats there. But suitable boats like yachts were not available then. Hence we spent some time doing a bit of shopping in the attractive shopping arcade there and returned to the new cottage at George called orchard cottage by evening and settled for the night.
24th March
The place at George was a self service unit, the kitchen provided with vessels and cutleries. By now we had developed in settling and fixing our meal at any new place. The place was comfortable. After preparing breakfast and array on lunch for the way, our programme was to drive to oudtshoorn a 60 km drive from George in another direction Knysna, lying on the Garden route it had many attractions lined up.
In fact we had planned an itenary along Garden route from Cape town to George and to outdshoorn and Knysna all lying along the S.African south east coast. But as we drove from Cape town first 250 km to George and then 60 km to Oudtshoorn and another direction 60 km to Knysna, we could find long patches of arid and dry land with not a soul to be seen, no houses, no cultivation and around George the crux of garden route some greenery and activity did exist but to an Indian eye used to lush tropical trees and miles and miles of cultivated land, these places hardly looked well endowed with greenery.
But the landscape had its own beauty. It was vast, unending, mostly having more bushes and shrubbery. Trees are sparing and few. No wonder African land is many times referred as bush land.
The Oudtshoorn where we were driving had long tracks of ostrich farms. We found hundreds and hundreds of Ostrich roaming around in the large tracts of lands all by itself, more like cattle grazing around! As there is hardly anyone around to man it, we found both for houses and farms people resort to electric fences which is a good deterrent for anyone to enter or come out. It was interesting to watch the ostrich which had human like expression. We got down to observe them in close quarters and had our photo sessions. Ostriches are like `Kamadenu’ here. It’s a big business out here. Every part is utilized. The ostrich meat sells in good price. The eggs are eaten and shells made into artifacts. The feathers are also used to make variety of things. In fact oudtshoorn is the ostrich capital of the world exporting many feather items.
Here another big business is to make private game park where lat many animals including star attractions the carnivorous like Lions, tigers, cheetah, Leopard (the big cats) are kept well and made into tourist attraction with good entry fee, guides to explain and make it more interesting and special features as to allow you to go near cubs of these wild animals where the visitors get the thrill to go near touch and fondle them all for a fee. We went now to such a game park in the outskirts of oudtshoorn. It had a good variety of wild life. Fish, turtles, crocodiles, vultures, cranes, flamingoes, lemur ,pygmy hippos, diving into the crocodile pond through a cage, cheetah-cheetah cubs, tigers & tiger cubs, lion & lion cubs. All well kept and very cutely explained by a young English girl. Raghu & Prerna went into the enclosure of Cheetha cubs. There were 5 to 6 cubs a bit oversized for a cub. But well used to human beings .Being a hot afternoon they were lazily lying down. R&P had a good thrill fondling them and came out happy and excited. Later they converted one of the photos to a T-shirt in the near by counter there and also got photo frames of their photo with the cubs( the entry fee 150Rands each for 10 minute to be with the Cheetah cubs with three forest guides in tow)
From the game park we drove to the famous Cango caves – A most spectacular and huge underground caves, very well maintained with lights and guided tours.
The caves which are massive and extending to few kms inside the earth.
For about a km or so the pathway has massive opening, insides almost like an auditorium with huge columns of crystallized limestone as huge pillars and sheets of folded crystal columns looking like artistic curtains.
After about a km the path narrows for another km inside which has to be negotiated with difficulty, crawling, sliding through narrow opening etc.
The first half was called standard path, the second half the adventure path. While we opted for the standard path R& P opted for the adventure path. Ours was a 60minute guided tour and theirs was a 90 minute path. (going and coming)
It was thrilling experience to see this natures wonder , one of the biggest caves under earth which was discovered 200 yrs back accidentally by an English man, later it took several yrs gradually to trace the entire pathway. Now it is well laid out for anyone to go and view it.
Raghu & prerna however found the going a bit tough. With the interior pathways a bit stifling with out air to breath too. However they had the satisfaction of having gone through a tough and interesting adventure.
Returned back to George by 7.00 p.m. Halted enroute at a view point facing the hills and our packed meals as dinner. Here the shops close by 7.00 p.m. Hence we had to rush and pick up groceries, water, veggies and return back home (to the orchard cottage) .
25 th March
The morning dawned in Orchard villa in a undeceive note. Raghu & Prerna had their mind set on sky diving. It was a sport advertised at Mossal bay. Raghu had his mind for some time on this sport. Though it sounded scary to us, he assured us it is done with a safety element called tandem jumping. The method you have a qualified person attached to you while jumping down from the hts of the plane. After a initial free fall the person behind takes over in the parachute. It would be a unique experience. They had plans to do it and they made enquires to the person concerned. He told to report by 8.30 a.m at mossal bay 55kms away from George.
However though he had told he will inform the place to report by night fall, no information had come till morning. Hence we started exploring other options of outings.
Venkat had wanted to yachting (going by sail boat) in the Knysna lagoon. We decided to try that out. Fixing of the programmed was done with out much hassle. We could hire a private yacht for an hr & half. The time was fixed for 11.00 a.m. Our check out time from Orchard cottage was 10.00 a.m. So we hurried up with our breakfast & lunch preparation etc and were ready by 9.45 a.m. Left by 10.00 a.m sharp to Knysna 60 km far. We reached their by 11.00 a.m. The yacht and the yachtsman one Mr. Stephan with his helper was waiting for us. It was a nice sail boat with motor power option. The place with chic shops, Restaurant, a Venice like place all close to water front. There was a novel lift up bridge which is lifted up whenever a big boat or yacht has to cross the other side, later it is put back to act as a bridge.
The yacht called `Outenique “ started by 11.15 a.m. The crew was friendly giving us interesting information of life around there. They were also keen to know about India. Having heard some richest men of the world like Mithal & Ambani are from India.
Initially the yacht was going in a comfortable pace as it was negotiating the lagoon> it’s a large water body surrounded by flat hills all along. Pretty roofed dwellings are made all around. It was a good sight to watch sitting peacefully in the slow moving yacht. Soon we reached the mouth of the lagoon and were out in the sea.-The Indian Ocean. The chemistry changed immediately. The waves came lapping up making the yacht to turn and twist. We were feeling thrilled but it was a bit scary. We were asked to put our life jackets in case! Added to that the captain had dished out the news that everyday like the divers enter the water to fish out for drowned bodies. But he assured the ocean is not that turbulent that day. And tried to bring down our panic levels. Though he and his assistant also were wearing life jackets. Any way we were enjoying the experience. Riding a small open yacht in the huge Indian ocean. Then we got the bonus. We all spotted a big leather backed brown turtle. It just showed itself for a minute or so and dipped back. Even veteran sailor Stephan was excited. He told rarely he has seen turtle over his long sojourns into the sea. That got him excited and he turned the yacht round and round around the same place to spot the turtle again , we could spot it again 2 more times. I remembered seeing a sea turtle brings good luck and considered to be a good omen. We then reluctantly moved out of the ocean and entered the lagoon head along the imposing rock cliff which acts like a gate into lagoon. Rode back and reached the yacht parking head close to the array of shops and restaurants. We were the only one yachting at that time and we had lot of onlookers looking at the group of Indians on to traveling and adventure.
From Yachting we moved our scene fast and started driving back at around 1.30 p.m as we had a plane to catch at 5.00 p.m from George town.
As we were passing through Kynsna town, we got attracted by the sleek shopping arcade and the African craft stalls found there. Further in our hurry of traveling and seeing places we had hardly allotted time for shopping African curios.
So we got down and moving through the shops time just slipped by. Then we came across an Italian run restaurant having interesting menu and open places to sit and eat. With lunch time rumblings on we sat for a pizza and assorted drinks. The pizza was really authentic made by the Italian chef in wood fire etc. It was 3.30 by the time we moved off from Knysna town to 65 km off George airport. When we landed at George it was a neck to neck race as we had to return the rented car and rush with the luggage not properly arranged with 10 to 12 assorted pieces and we were one of the last to be stamped in before the counter was closing for aircraft. Thus we made the trip saving ourselves at the nick of the time.
We reached J.Burg airport by 6.45 p.m after a one hr and 45 mts flight covering 2000kms. So now we had moved off from Southern most tip of S. Africa Cape town – George to mid north of S.Africa at J.Burg, another big town of S.Africa. The third big town of S.Africa is Durban close to the coast that is were most of the Indians are living. Durban was not in our itenary but Raghu having seen and described the place. It was here max. Indians who had arrived to S.Africa via the port more than 150 yrs back as traders, slaves & labourers bought in by Europeans. But by now their living style has improved with education.
Here things work so admiringly or was it for us! It is more so with the system of the place. As soon as we entered there was a vehicle waiting for us in the parking lot sent by Raghu’s firm.
We picked our luggage and boarded our car to drive back from J.Burg to home at Wit bank (150 km off) and were home by 8.30 p.m after 6 days of interesting trips, getting to know S.Africa.
26th March
We had little time to sit back and ruminate about our 6 day S.African trip as we had to get set for the 3 day Kruger National park trip.
Kruger game park, I learned was one of the biggest game park of the world holding whole lot of precious endangered animals> Lying in the N.eastern part of S.Africa in a latitude similar to India between 20 to 24` S.latiude spreading over 360 km length and 60 km wide having neighboring countries as Mozambique as border, where also the area extends, thus the animals have a long terrain to move around.
In fact the Trans frontier area (comprising of area from S.Africa Kruger national park, area in Mozambique and Zimbaive) has a total area of 35,000 sq kms, the largest conservatory area for animals in the world where they can still hope to have a free time some time to come.
Drive to Kruger park from Wit bank was about 350 km approx. There are several gates to enter Kruger. We chose to enter from the southernmost gate called Crocodile bridge gate close to Mozambique. Starting from home around 9.30 a.m after breakfast and packed food we reached the Kruger, Kamatipoor area and entered the gate around 2.00 p.m
In Kruger the set up is you have long winding roads cutting into the area. At the entrance one is given a map showing roads, waterways, gates, rest places etc. One has to drive around slowly keeping the hears and eyes tuned out scouting for animals. It is like a hide and seek game. It is pure luck if we get to see the animals. It can be hiding behind a bush or plainly walking in the road or gone for a bath in a water body or lazily grazing around in the abundance of grass grounds around.
We got spruced to the game as soon as we entered the park. We made teams as one to look right and one to look left other to look straight and one to look at the map and animals to identify and take photos if an animal is spotted.
We were lucky right from the start. As the crocodile gate was close to water bodies and time was right after hot noon hrs , the animals mostly grass eaters were out. We could right away spot wilder beast (Neel gai), Zebras, Elephants, Giraffes, Rhinos close to the road. We then got tips about Cheetah sighting from passers by. We went on a detour for 4 kms and found this Cheetah pair. Nicely perched on a tree. By then many had got the hit. There was lot many cars making a circle around the ground where Cheetha’s were fund. They were oblivious of the gazes and for long time the pair was perched on the tree showing their antics. It was a good and rare sight.
By the time dusk was falling. As per rules we had to reach the camp Shukaza where we had been booked by 6.00 p.m. After 6.00 no one is allowed to be out in the national park.
We rushed to reach our camp by the correct time or else if the gates close we will be left in wilderness. As we were rushing through, it was getting dark and suddenly a pack of wild dogs surfaced right on our path. It was a very rare sight as these are only about 300 of them in the entire area.
We stopped the car and too some snaps, but it was a bit scary as they are ferocious and it seems they tear the prey in no time, leaving no chance for defense.
It was 6.15 p.m by the time we reached the gates. The authorities were stickler to rules. They charged a fine of 220 R (Rs 1200) for late arrival. However as Raghu explained that we lost our way on a `loop’ etc, they conceded and decreased the fine to 100R.
In fact getting an accommodation inside Kruger is not very easy as accommodations are limited. Run by govt., no private enterprise is allowed in. If one doesn’t get a Kruger accommodation then one has to stay in numerous hotels outside Kruger. There is a football stadium next to Kruger where the coming world food ball match will be held.
Raghu’s S.African colleague one Mr. Joe had procured for him 2 huts in his name, Later we met Joe and family, an elderly gentle man of above 50, a typical S.African white, heavy built. They had come to camp with the family in their traveling Caravan units. He met us and invited us to meet his family group consisting of his wife, wife’s sister, her husband and fried family. So we got an opportunity to interact with an S.African family and find out a bit about their life style.
Gradually we were getting some idea of Indian’s in the scheme of things in S.Africa where the two human races whites and blacks are pitched against one another. Right from the start there is hardly any social interaction between the two groups. Where as it looked Indians can get a common ground more with whites than blacks. Perhaps education is a leveler. Raghu found his white colleagues are more forthcoming to interact even call them few times for food while the blacks working in the office were not that keen to interact, though Raghu had kept an equal pitch with both the groups.
Here we found Joe’s family and the extended family were very warm. All the members of the group were out and ready to receive us. We gave them some gifts brought from India while Mrs. Joe presented some home made rusks. Here S.African whites are more laid back, relaxed and family oriented. They have a good sized family. Mrs. Joe’s sister had four girls while Joe & Mrs. Joe were grand pa and grand ma.
Now coming to our Kruger Skukza camp we found our accommodation consisted of pretty hut like structures each unit self contained having beds, bathrooms, fridge, kitchenette and cutleries for preparing meal. The thatched hut like units completely blended with the surrounding. The lights were dim. In fact when we reached the camp it had become dark and we had to grope around searching for respective huts.
Another trait of the camp was cooking has to be done in a common semi open area where hot plates and running water is provided. At these times the rice cooker we had carted from India came as a good source to cook. The dinner was rice prepared in rice cooker and ready to eat Rajmash heated up and soup from the soup packets we had taken along.
Thus dinner was ready in a short time and we took to bed early. The next day morning we were scheduled to get up early to view the nocturnal animals and carnivorous which can be spotted only in early morning hrs.
27th March 2010
We were awake and ready by 5.00 a.m . By 5.30 a.m all of us had hopped into the car and out in the roads. This is called`pajama’ rounds. There were many cars in procession all scouting for the elusive animals. Trying our early morning luck.
And we did see them right away. The pack of wild dogs we had seen fleetingly in the evening was spotted again. This s time we could take video shots too. Later we learned there are many in spite of several visits have not seen the wild dogs at all. So it all depends on pure chance to spot the animals. In the morning round we saw baboons, vervet monkeys and other grazers which we had seen the day before.
After retuning back and attending to our morning routines we started out in enthusiasm for the next round about elevenish. The day was hot and our luck seems now to be running thin. For miles and miles, hrs on end there was no animals to be seen. Finally at a water spot we saw two full grown elephants. They were frolicking, going into to mock fights, giving us ample photo sessions.
We returned by 6.00 p.m but disappointed the search was not so fruitful like the previous day, especially we had not seen many of the big five. The big five are Lion, Leopard, wild buffalo, Rhino and elephant.
28th March –
THE DAY OF HIGH DRAMA
We were exhausted by the previous day long hunt for animals and decided to skip the early `pajama’ tour exercise and had a fitful sleep.
Then it was a visit to Mr. Joe (Raghu’s colleague & friend) & family.
It was nearly ten when we started the trip vacating the Szukuza camp premises.
Our plan was to move from Shukuza gate to crocodile bridge gate about 60 km run is slow motion.
It was a pretty dry run to start with but the day was cool, it had rained and we had hoped we should see the animals coming out in opposite to previous day logic of hot day and no animals.
But the animals seem to be having a siesta in the cool shades and they were spotted few and far between. We were still short of seeing 3 of the big five.
It was about 3.00 p.m, we had come to our tethers end, then suddenly we got a tip from a passer by, to move along the side road as they had spotted both Rhino and Lion there.
We rushed there praying for a last minute luck opening and we get to see the Lion.
It was like a scene right out of African Safari. In a water front, first we spotted a huge Rhino basking in the sun, next to that in good visibility were a herd of wild buffaloes. In the fore ground was a big herd of handsome Impalas moving around. And in the vicinity next to the bush where our vehicle was parked, hardly 10 ft away were 2 big lions. Wow what a sight!
We decided to park the car there itself and see the drama unfolding for it was a clear scene of Lion hunt, hiding in the bushes with its favorite prey’s Deer and Buffalo in large no.s grazing in vicinity.
One of the Lions moved off to other side while the buffaloes and Impalas were sharpening their reflexes. We felt perhaps it’s an ambush the Lion is planning. Then all the buffaloes herded together and sat in a tight line with a leader in the front. It looked as a defense team. The deer was however fearless. They went close to the Lion. We thought here we are going to witness a kill. By the time lot more motorists had assembled armed with their powerful cameras. We waited there for an hr and half forgoing our lunch and waiting to see the lunch of the Lion.
But the drama was going unendingly with the Lions moving position but not getting to the real act. Then raghu recalled Lion generally kill only in twilight or night hrs. We decided then to quit the scene.
Just as we backed a little to move off. The Deers suddenly sensing an impending danger pranced and started running in panic crossing the road. Something like sprint runners. Soon the Lion followed, pouncing and running behind the deers, crossing the road, oblivious of all the motorists and onlookers.
The call of the hunger has no inhibitions. But poor thing it was an abortive attempt. Perhaps with the wall of the motorist around it lost its sight and moorings for a deer chase. It returned back to the high grass.
But it was a great sight for all of us. It looked like the Lion decided to so a high drama purely for entertainment sake so that all onlookers can go back satisfied.
We left supremely happy of having witnesses a real life drama in Kruger which we felt would have been a rare sight to any one, including old timers except the fortunate!
We rushed then to be out of Kruger by 6.00 p.m there was a 3 hr drive to get back home.
Through out the trips both Raghu and Prerna were altering to be in the wheel for driving. For though the road was fine, the distances were long and the driver requires relief time to time. We found these trips around S.Africa for last 10 days had taken us 3000 km of journey by road excluding the 2000 km we did by air from J.Burg. to George town. Thus the landscape of S.africa got well etched in our eyes.
The vast vistas of beautiful countryside, the well made for roads and facilities for tourists to move around are world class. The one snag was the underlying fear of criminals or the black under privileged attacking. To get over that and wee S.Africa, the answer would to join a well organized tour. S.Africa as a tourist destination can be put in the top grade.
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